Making sausage
admin | February 28, 2011 | 11:49 amGetting around to this entry has seemingly been an effort with no real excuse for the delay. It just feels like I have been so busy as of late that there just aren’t enough hours in the day anymore to get done what I want to get done.
Case in point is not only making a few pounds of sausage, but then sharing this with you.
As I alluded to earlier in the year, I wanted 2011 to be the year where I start getting back into the various hobbies I find enjoyable and used to dabble in. I’ll be brewing beer in a few weeks from now (early March), I’m currently working on my train layout, been reading a lot more books as of late, and finally got back into making sausage.
My cousin Jayne sent me an old family recipe from notes her grandfather had when he used to make Italian sausage from the old country when he came over here to America. It’s pretty straight forward: 1 part pork to 1 part beef, a can of mace, some red wine (most likely chianti), and a few other spices.
On the surface, while this recipe sounds simplistic enough, after reviewing it a few times in my head I noted that I was getting more and more unsure about it as some key information seems to be missing. Namely, what the hell is a ‘can of mace’ and what is its measurement? And as long as we are speaking measurements, how much wine are we talking about? How much and what other spices (I assume salt, pepper, and maybe some fennel) are required for equal parts beef and pork?
Well, it’s easy enough to find out what ‘mace’ is, that still doesn’t tell me what a ‘can’ of mace is. Is that 6oz? 8 oz? 12 oz? And another key ingredient seemed to be missing altogether….fat.
Fat is what gives a good sausage its moisture content. Too little fat can result in a very dry sausage, while too much may make it too greasy and a cardiologist nightmare.
To my families disappointment, I shelved the family recipe for the time being (I will eventually have to experiment with this on my own, coming up with measurements by trial and error), promising to get to it at a later date.
Earlier in the week I had called my local butcher and had him reserve for me roughly 4 lbs of pure pork back fat. I also grabbed 10 feet of natural hog casing (which is made from the intestinal lining of a pig) which resides in a small plastic bin of water and some brining fluid. *While hog casing can be frozen and will keep for a while prior to usage, I tend to like to use it as fresh and as chilled as I can. When it starts to warm to room temperature and left out for a bit, you can sometimes detect an odor. I don’t particularly care for this odor and since I worry a lot about accidental introduction of bacteria, I try to limit the handling of fresh casing until I start stuffing, and I try and make it as quick as I can and then return to the refrigerator or freezer when not on use.
In the meantime, I broke out an old standby, my ‘Complete Sausage Book’ by Bruce Aidell. I’ve had this book for a number of years, and while it’s a no frills book, it’s an excellent source of information and tons of regional recipes. In the past this book has guided me through Mediterranean and Southwestern fare, chicken sausage, turkey with pesto and artichoke, and many more.
Looking in my pantry I saw that I had the dry spice ingredients to make two different varieties: Hungarian hot links and one of my old favorites, Mexican (although not chorizo).
Friday night it happened to be raining, so it was a great excuse to make my first batch, the Hungarian hot links. I broke out my Krups meat grinder, and went ahead and ground my fresh pork shoulder and beef chuck. I also added a good portion of pork fat, all my spices, mixed thoroughly and set in the fridge, covered, overnight to let the flavors blend and stabilize. It was the next morning that I went ahead and stuffed my casings. It was a little more laborious than I remembered only because the feed plate to the hopper kept coming off the base due to a vacuum effect of pulling and pushing the manual stuffer with one hand and guiding the actual output into a casing with the other.
While it can clearly be done this way, its definitely can proceed much faster with two people: one person feeding the hopper with the other guiding and controlling the casings. I will enlist my wife on round two.
Now with the first batch done, I turned my sights to the second batch, the Mexican varietal. What gives this variation its distinct flavor is the inclusion of ground chipotle and cumin along with some Negro Modelo dark Mexican Ale (my all time favorite beer) added for additional flavor and moisture. I think in the future when I make this again, I may also add a small can of pre-chopped jalapeño into the mix as well for some additional kick. (If not jalapeño, then maybe some mild diced pablano pepper instead just to bring a tad more south of the border flair to it.)
I more or less followed the same procedure and broke it up into two stages for overall ease. Saturday afternoon, I ground my meat and fat, added fresh ground spices and beer, mixed, and placed in fridge overnight. I also had a couple of Negro Modelo’s at this point to aid in the cleaning up process. Finally Superbowl Sunday morning came around and I got my wife to volunteer her services. She’d be placing the meat in the hopper and feed tube, and I’d be guiding the casings. In the end, it was much faster to produce almost twice as much finished links as it did when I made the Hungarian links the day before.
The final result: We tried the Hungarian hot links and they were very juicy and tasty. The Mexican sausage had a great flavor, but maybe because my friend may have slightly ‘over grilled’ them, they were a bit drier than I expected (not enough fat?). Although the weekend after we threw a sauage party at my house and I grilled them again with a few other varities as well, and they seemed to be much tastier and plump, but lacked the ‘kick’ I really wanted. But it was my neighbors and friends that were the final judge. I seemed to have gotten a thumbs up from everyone and a few of my neighbors are still talking about them today, so I’ll take that as a good sign.





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